Monkey Temple, Kathmandu, Nepal

Monkey Temple, Kathmandu, Nepal

We awoke late in the morning to more brilliant tropical sunshine.  A few lazy hours flitted past, carried away gently by the warm ocean breeze, before time accelerated to its customary frenetic pace.   Packs loaded, we walked down to the dock where we embarked on a less eventful return journey: ferry ride (minus the puking), overnight bus transport (minus the cockroach infestation), a quick transfer at sunrise, and we found ourselves inside Bangkok’s modern, glassy airport.  It was remarkably devoid of people.  We stood alone on the moving walkway, which, like the hands of time, carried us steadily and inevitably forward into another chapter of our trip. Continue reading


Koh Tao

snorkeling in Koh Tao

Snorkeling in Koh Tao

The next morning we rode mopeds south along a narrow road to the quieter, less settled side of the island.  Roland, a broad-shouldered German ex-pat was pushing a long-tail boat towards the beach.  We waded through the soft sand and warm surf, along with a large, boisterous, friendly French family, climbed aboard, and pushed off for a snorkeling tour of the island.  The weather had remained pristine since we’d disembarked in Koh Tao.  The sun floated in a cloudless azure sky, its bright rays caressing tanned skin and turning the ocean below an inviting aquamarine. Continue reading

It’s Not the Journey, It’s the Destination

Off to the islands!

SPF 110!  Off to the islands!

Our stomachs still full from the Amita Thai Cooking Class, we settled into a sleeper traincar bound for Koh Tao.  As we drifted off into much-needed sleep, our plans were interrupted by the skittering black blur of a large cockroach hustling across the floor.  It disappeared out of sight–the worst thing that could have happened.  Mandy’s imagination raced frantically: Where is it hiding? Where will it turn up next? How will it sneak up on me?  She’d finally began to relax when a second, smaller, cockroach zig-zagged into view.  I smashed it with a flip-flop. Continue reading

Last Days in Bangkok

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Wakefulness arrived slowly the next morning, the hotel’s high thread count sheets and luxuriously soft down bedding imprisoning us deep within the depths of a Songkran-induced slumber.  Eventually, we managed to rub the sleep from our eyes and staggered down to the hotel’s equally lavish inclusive breakfast.  Against one wall were the classic Western staples: fresh fruits and juices, yogurt, eggs, pastries, bacon, and sausages.  Mandy, however, bypassed those familiar comforts for the Asian dishes along the opposite wall: savory pho soups, thick rice porridge (called congee) containing meat and fresh herbs, and spicy stir-fried noodle dishes.  She has never been a huge fan of American breakfast food and has been in heaven the past two months.

Our first stop after breakfast was the Maeklong Railroad Market.   Continue reading


Andy, Ari, Mandy, and myself at Songkran

Andy, Ari, Mandy, and myself at Songkran

The water theme continued into the next day.  It was Songkran, a celebration of the Thai New Year.  The Buddhist tradition of symbolically washing away misfortune and wrongdoing has morphed into modern Songkran, the world’s largest, and most insane, water battle.  Families stand outside their houses with hoses and buckets full of (ice) water to douse passersby.  Pickup trucks hauling giant garbage can reservoirs take the water fight to the streets attacking pedestrians, other cars and trucks, and Thailand’s countless moped riders (for those wondering, no, it’s not all that safe).

Continue reading